Spring into action in the kitchen

FINALLY it's here – although it feels like aeons that we've been stuck in the dampness of winter. The nights are definitely getting lighter, there's sunshine on the cobbled streets of Edinburgh, wild garlic blooming in Colinton Dell and broad beans in the greengrocers. Yes, finally spring has sprung.

So, as we cast off our winter woollens, we can start looking forward, food-wise at least, to the start of a Scottish summer.

While there might be bit of chill in the air, at Number One at The Balmoral, spring is in full swing and the menu is crammed with seasonal goodies including peas and pea shoots, courgette flowers, crab and baby vegetables.

Of all the things I have learnt in this kitchen, one key is that seasonal food is not only exciting for chefs, but makes financial sense as well. Asparagus may be £2.99 a bundle right now, but give it a few weeks and at 89p a bunch you'll be eating it with everything. In risotto, in soups, mixed through salads or even on its own, accessorised with a poached egg or olive oil.

What I've also learnt is that spring and summer cooking can be quick and easy, perfect for enjoyable al fresco dining.

It comes down to attention to detail, which lifts an entire dish. Whether it's adding that fresh herb or spice, or making sure you chop all your potatoes to the same size so they cook evenly or just seasoning well, these small things can turn tasty into taste sensation.

Nothing beats the frittata. This Italian-style omelette can be packed full of your favourite ingredients, cooked in advance and served cold. It's perfect for a spring picnic, a leisurely lunch or a light supper with wine.

Then there is asparagus. This sweet, juicy, green, crunchy and wonderfully tasty plant is, in my opinion, Britain's most exquisite vegetable. It is so easy to prepare and tasty blanched, grilled or even just chopped raw into salads. Wrapped in Parma ham, with a foamy hollandaise or on toasted bread with melted goats' cheese, it's versatile but always retains the culinary wow factor. And it's easy to make – three to five minutes in boiling salted water.

Salting the water is important, as it speeds up the cooking process and minimises the loss of colour. Salting also prevents the natural salt and sugar being drawn out and deterioration in flavour.

Another seasonal treat, but one that is definitely less famous, is the early or new potato. While potatoes are available all year round, the early ones are tender, sweet and waxy, holding their shape when boiled, and their skin is so fine they don't need to be peeled. They also don't store as well as the matured potatoes – so make the most of them while they last.

Slice them and gently fry them before serving over salads or boil them and mix with mayonnaise. Whatever you do, make sure it's quick and easy for some hassle-free alfresco dining.

Jenny Shanks is a chef at Number One restaurant, The Balmoral Hotel

RECIPES
Asparagus and early potato frittata (serves two)
Ingredients:
6 large eggs, preferably organic
1 heaped tablespoon freshly grated parmesan or other hard cheese.
5-6 new potatoes, depending on size, boiled and sliced to about 1cm thick.
1/2 a bunch of asparagus
A small handful of torn mint leaves
Sea salt and pepper
Olive oil
Zest of 1/2 a lemon

Method:
Blanch the asparagus in salted boiling water for about three minutes or until tender.
Drain, and run under cold water to maintain the vivid green colour.

Slice into 1 cm rounds. In a bowl, whisk the eggs, adding a pinch of salt, and pepper, then the cheese, lemon zest and torn mint leaves. In a small, non-stick frying pan, heat up enough oil to comfortably cover the base of the pan.

You can check if it is hot enough by drizzling egg mixture into it.
When the mixture puffs and foams immediately, pour the rest of the mixture in, and add the potatoes and asparagus.

Slowly, with a wooden spoon, move the eggs around the pan, pulling away from the sides and letting fresh mixture flood the edges.

When there are ribbons of cooked egg dispersed throughout the pan, you can leave it to cook for a minute or two and then pop under the grill.

This just allows the top to cook and colour without the mess of having to flip it over.
Cook under the grill until golden, firm and it has risen slightly.

Slide on to a board and eat hot with an easy rocket salad for an indoor supper, or keep 'til cold, slice and pack for your picnic.

Salsa Verde MayonnaiseIngredients:

1 small garlic clove
A small bunch of flat-leaf parsley without the big stalks About 15-20 basil leaves from 3-4 sprigs of tarragon
2-3 anchovy fillets
1 teaspoon capers
1 teaspoon mustard
1/4 of a lemon squeezed
black pepper
4 tablespoons mayonnaise or 1-2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

Method:
Chop herbs, then separately chop garlic. Add anchovies and capers and chop together until the ingredients are well mixed. Combine the garlic and anchovy mix with mustard, lemon juice, black pepper.

Add herbs and either mix in mayonnaise or stir in olive oil to give a glossy thick consistency.